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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 07:01 - 12 Jul 2019 Post subject: |
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sickpup wrote: | Paddy. wrote: | It took the biggest air gun and a ground down torx hammered in to get most of them out, the others were a smaller air gun. They weren't moving I didn't touch before hand, I was able to use a 3ft extension, stand on it and not move it at all, at which point I stopped and called Pete. |
A windy gun in my experience sn't the appropriate tool to start with and neither is an allen socket and breaker bar, an impact driver is. |
The 'mechanic' who had changed the discs the first time put the bolts in with a rattle gun and so much high strength threadlock it had migrated up the bolt and locked the shoulder to the disc as well as the thread in the hole. Added to that they had chewed up some of the hex's trying to remove the bolts later. I had to put a short extension in a 1/2" drive socketed allen key to shock all of them before any of them would move. After that some came out with a Hitachi battery impact, the rest I used a heavier mains powered one. The chewed up head ones I had to swap the allen for a torx.
Anyway, they all came out where the fitter could not move a single one, and that's what counts. I have a impact driver but I haven't used it in probably 15 years. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 12:31 - 12 Jul 2019 Post subject: |
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Had some time yesterday to strip the bodywork off.
One of the problems with ER6's is they vibrate a lot, its so bad that is wears out the bodywork tabs so that the body work resonates loudly. There was even a recall on the 2006-7 models for foam pads to be fitted between body panels so stop them rattling around.
As an example of how bad the vibration is on mine the two upper headlight mounts actually vibrated through and are held in place with zip ties.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20190711_145035.jpg
This panel will be replaced with a new one to be ordered today along with a few other things, air filter, front sprocket washer and fork seals. One of the best things about this bike is the genuine parts are relatively cheap so this little lot only comes to £230.
I've always liked the looks of the ER6 without any bodywork, looks to me a bit like a flat tracker.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20190711-wa0015.jpeg |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Robby |
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Robby Dirty Old Man
Joined: 16 May 2002 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
There is a gap of 211 days between these two posts... |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 10:00 - 27 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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The swingarm was full of corrosion so an easy way of sorting this was to spray it full of Dinitrol. This is useful stuff, it neutralises corrosion and leaves a waxy layer that further protects the metal work.
Dinitrol comes in a large can and you use an air fed application gun to apply it. The gun has a long tube with a 5 way nozzle so it sprays forward and sideways coating everything.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200227_083529.jpg
The gun also atomises the Dinitrol so even if it doesn't directly hit a section it still gets a good coating. as it never truely sets it creeps and has a degree of self repairing if scratched or damaged.
One downside is the Dinitrol needs to be warm to atomise, people often heat it up in a bucket of hot water but if its too warm it flows too easily so leaves too thin a coat on whatever you spray it on.
The inside of the swingarm looks like this now
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200227_083644.jpg
As you can see everything is well coated but there is pooling at the bottom of the swingarm which isn't perfect but is a limitation of the product.
This is horribly messy stuff, you really don't want to get it on a garage floor or over clothing. Its slippery, waxy and once set is a nightmare to clean up but it really does work.
There are bikes like the Z900 where the front cradle rots out, drill a drain hole and spray full of Dinitrol and you will never have this problem.
As more retro style bikes such as Triumphs use steel cradle frames there will be more big bikes in need of this type of treatment, it also works on Steel framed push bikes. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 16:46 - 27 Feb 2020 Post subject: |
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One of the most useful tools when working on a bike like this is an Angle grinder with a poly pad on it.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200227_151851.jpg
Used lightly it can take off corrosion and polish the base metal while removing very little of the good.
For eaxmple the rear axle on this was heavily corroded, so bad I damaged the threads while removing it and had to get a second hand one which wasn't much better but at least still had the threads intact.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200227_151930.jpg
Now this bike is relatively young at 10 years old but does have some 95k on it but many bikes that people work on will be older and in worse condition but the grinder with poly pad in a matter of minutes makes the axle look like this
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200227_153153.jpg
Its not perfect but oh so much better than it was and now goes through the wheel smoothly and will be even better once greased.
A lot of people use copper grease on axles which is something I don't recommend. Use a general purpose or Castrol LM grease on the actual axle, only use copper grease on the threaded part. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 17:05 - 10 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Managed to get a bit of time to work on it so front end is now off and the original ball bearing head races need to come out.
I like ball bearings, they are simple, relatively self adjusting and have low drag compared to taper roller bearings due to less surface area touching the metal races but they are more expensive than a set of tapers which only cost £30.
most modern bikes above 500cc have a problem with the head races, they are sunk into the headstock with no easy way to knock them out. These are quite possibly the worst I have seen.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20200409-wa0011.jpeg
Some bikes have a tiny notch in the headstock so you can use a drift but even this is difficult.
Since I start welding and fabricating I tend to keep some mild steel about and I have some 10mm pipe which I sharpened to a point and it just about fitted in the notch and with the help of a mini Mjólnir hammer the races came out wrecking the drift in the process.
Most bikes have different size races with the small one at the top and a big one at the bottom. As most of the force in use goes through the bottom this makes sense but does mean the top bearing is the one that generally wears the most. On the ER6 the bearings are the same size which you can see from the diameter of the steering stem.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200409_154138.jpg
As a result the head races on this have lasted 10 years and 95000miles.
A problem I hadn't considered is my head race press only has one size of each bearing drift so there was a fair amount of messing around using the old races to press the new ones into place. Time to buy a spare set of bearing drifts. |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 17:13 - 10 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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I remember that recessed race from my KLE500. Mr Kawasaki does like a laugh.
In the manual you're supposed to use this oddball expanding slidehammer thing to get them out.
I used the welder trick in the end. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 18:58 - 10 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Bless you, sir, for reminding me of the Dinitrol! Working on the old DT this week I noticed a partly enclosed bit of the swing arm practically glowing orange with corrosion Then I remember hearing something about how to deal with it...
Anyhoo, excellent timing
Regarding steering races, this is what I use on MTBs:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JMP-steering-head-bearing-removal-tool-30mm-50mm-headstock-race-cup-remover/282381874641
Would that work? ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 19:51 - 10 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Here is a modified for PD Valves vs the original damper rod.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200410_190255.jpg
Drilled out with a stepper bit as per Robby's suggestion.
It's not quite to the instructions as I couldn't be bothered to weld up the holes that were already there but it should be fine. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Eddie Hitler |
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Eddie Hitler World Chat Champion
Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 10:50 - 15 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Just a couple of asides.
Stainless bolts can seize in mild steel. Had this one seize in the Givi rack so a piece of plate welded to it made it a lot easier to remove.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20200412-wa0005.jpeg
These calipers have a problem with the pad pin seizing in place. The easiest way around this is to drill a hole in the dimple before they seize so you can just knock them out with a punch.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200415_104256.jpg
these calipers are used on a lot of bikes including the SV650. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 12:22 - 15 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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There's still some discolouration from use and the wire brush as well as pitting on the edges but the pitting is the pad side of the fluid seal so it doesn't bother me or affect the brake performance, at least the crud is gone I could change the pistons as well as the seals but at £20 each it's a bit pricey at the moment, I might replace them at the end of next winter.
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/20200415_121309.jpg |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 14:08 - 24 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Spent the last couple of days cleaning the bike and today I removed the left hand footrest hanger which instantly showed me a serious problem. I never did get around to removing the swingarm as the pivot bolt is seized, if I had I would have found this problem before.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20200424-wa0002.jpeg
And a close up of the hole.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20200424-wa0000.jpeg
So now the swingarm definitely needs removal so I can decide whether to weld in a new section or to source a 2nd hand swingarm.
I'm very surprised that this has happened on an 11 year old Japanese bike, it's just not the sort of thing you expect. I'm willing to bet the bottom will be rotted as well so this could be quite a lot of metal needing replacement. On the plus side it's only a cross piece so a welded repair should be possible without compromising strength. Its a bit of an odd position for it to happen in, the rear wheel doesn't throw crap into this position and the silencer is directly underneath it so this may relate to the problem where the swingarm fills with water.
I've now beaten the pivot bolt into submission so have a bit of movement on it so hopefully it will come out. Now I need to remove and invert the foot rests so it can sit on a set of axle stands while the rear end is pulled out. |
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garth |
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garth World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Dec 2004 Karma :
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 19:07 - 24 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Feck indeed! And there's me worrying about the tiny bit of corrosion I found the other day
Seem to be a goodly amount of swing arms on the FleaBay, ~£50. ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 20:16 - 24 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Can i suggest you modify the next design iteration with a highly advanced feature people sometimes use on enclosed voids and water traps in oxidisable metal which are exposed to the elements called a "hole"?
From the cracks at the far side, it almost looks like it's burst. Frost damage? You get similar damage to steel farm gates where people have lost the top-cap. They fill with rainwater, then freeze. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 47 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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