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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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A100man |
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A100man World Chat Champion
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Posted: 12:59 - 14 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Hmm thoughtabout using that U-pol panel glue like they do for car door skins? I don't think it will be easy to make from one piece. I'd cutout the two shapes and spot weld with a mig every inch or so, flatten a bit then squirt Upol in the join before paint. ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 13:58 - 14 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Looking at some Google Images of various Minsk 125 builds and all the mudguards look pretty naff ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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A100man |
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A100man World Chat Champion
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Posted: 20:59 - 14 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel wrote: | A100man wrote: | [
I don't think it will be easy to make from one piece. I'd cutout the two shapes and spot weld with a mig every inch or so, flatten a bit then squirt Upol in the join before paint. |
I have a scratch tig set now, I'm hoping I can TIG bronze it on which should be less warpy/holey on account of you not having to melt the steel with the arc.
I'm going to have a crack at panel beating. It's only metal and steel is cheap so I can afford to cock it up a couple of times. |
Fair enough - good to try new stuff ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 23:39 - 14 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Frot mudguard was easier. It seems a bit high but they are OEM stays which usually go under the mudguard, I put them over the top tl lower it a little. As Easy-X says, their mudguards do look a trifle odd anyway and they seem to like a high front one. You can't really see it well on this pic but I made a centre stay too out of a piece of alloy flatbar. The plan is to rubber line them and I've ordered some nicer looking bolts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84PV-Zq0Ph5d6dUFA9v35C7CjHnyTZ3_KbvRR3ic5qsxOPKiTgg2XS_YiNAKPz8zmuvrwsUCzwakj3TCGLoNMEzZUK6SMaXaDTLMHD2beKhSPBtz9Kg3QKpxShR5mybbn9BmQ9cPIsE1xXcgcNrFV9H=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV879ci0S5Er4oio8e-n590BeY3-N4eaaaMo_Ks7kNDzjBLMpG-018QDjQXiVHQoqURn19v7vHcljRG56FckO3t2b8_IXeGAsZPdVop1IELVBP3D_SDoQupdmZdzlyOfliqddwWagjf9s8ZvByRpCyTxJ=w1547-h870-s-no
New less easy-rider handlebars arrived.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85zikLl_HMYiwZb6DWr-lxpwiijiQSBbVjGAKjRMQljTstfWMuuVGXpy_W6vxXNN_IaUpBTkzV41T9JyPVQqFgwdbhle9IOv9nrI-ecSZkgHuVpniWQpZ0NNgynex-B6PcAk61rDUrHneCdpYRs1cMP=w1547-h870-s-no
Headlamp shell. Captive M8 fine nuts in it as it turns out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV847oJdCMBihHnQaY6yqdV1UA_mkNK3WHuP6RH89lQSVFLbxE4mztPL3C_IDQV5tQwHAUCAi1c278XlUko1uDmZO_xEaoZIaokDccic05aOl5irsiOtZ8XJ_8p_x9AUZdfF2KENICYiA3G5he9PAST24=w1547-h870-s-no
I als got some lucas replica flashers for it which were closest to the originals I could find. The original ones are poor when new (like the live wire is trapped under a flat piece of spring steel instead of being connected to the holder). The ones I have are pretty much scrap. I need to do some modification to the stems on the lucas ones to make them fit.
Remembered to put oil in the gearbox.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85Gwy_5Ce20f4kJqv4lTPNZp2AHbQtqBo3L7n2hsYtXxhL16Bv0fzaV5sxyoxRBiGhglwVahVlOfxose9FMUuJy4NpB1obUlsCPqpI30sHzsJsZ3lR-gjGkzUnFByJsZ_1R0MXfMysuHNLokhVrrx_O=w1547-h870-s-no
Test fit the toolboxes. As well I did because the right side one fouled the mudguard. Nothing that couldn't be fixed with a small spacer though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85bX0hBbsVF6XGvacuuZBOViuOAskKe-9IjpJcmx-PNv9UjcPZLREKHnALGbqshyXrobUOf0ecNdO7piywOiv63Kbqoij4i6Lvpk5wEcy08UIebgAsLXqdavSr-FkdnRiOmkhiedCLm5eC5C5NMw9r4=w1547-h870-s-no
The right one is also part of the airbox and I want to put a good portion of the electrics into it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87lYRZVs-E0I8HaT_blA-GpIm1vJRMdbag51XOr-HYj2n5iZnEMWqAxG7XsR_p5go3O-vHyXQcZeazN5hGqvREC9MTFMU9jDi3PSRyZ_odS3am5rlhNMgug-BgBbdDYP8RZOcQz12rQCkpc3aMg_E-u=w1547-h870-s-no
The instructions for the ignition kit were in Ukranian or Russian (I don't think there's a lot of difference). The image recognition and google translate did a bang-up job this time.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84bSUBjhcrdqcsJLAI5uWWk7aagQcYC9g8IfIUDZXPRH0KupDLvPFNAFaNAkRLw6nifZ9si0ZD1fKnwegKDe75FCzSgWWyYu3IpN5d2NKVeWI-yMiTNpw9-IJMYvJxcYyHOlfn4iLVqehFyVf-eOTUf=w489-h870-s-no
My Enfield TDC tool also fits this bike. According to those instructions, 3mm BTDC is where it wants to be for ignition timing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV852rF9MIg4TiElqb2wlfsjTjIoOPKYBliRRZTM-YixApVpum9a430BrLrf2GKpYVJOYGPSCYbdSuP7IqbCYHiqB0yCdwE4kWEBoYyR0Gx14d-sOXhENExAbT91majvluDIAkWtacrC70wUNzNMz5Yph=w1547-h870-s-no
You fit a taper extension piece onto the crank taper, it has a timing notch attached round the base.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84wT3RhevHY3ElAM94v4FVBvR5AMdL75xzyQevhds4H1cT7_BcdydIp3DLucJfEc8jwQzMlGbjWXGGTsLWI0wpquwV7_smvM_g5WAWV1qXIvEpLUSLSsooOgOtuJEnpTB-SZqWyGORivIZnIqgrKvzT=w1547-h870-s-no
Then bolt the stator over the top. The idea is you then lock-down the taper extension with the timing notch next to the hall effect sensor, then fit the rotor over the top. Fine adjustment via the slotted screws. The standard rotor centre bolt is too long and my one is in bad shape anyway. It turns out it's M7 so had to order one. Well, I hope it's M7, M6 is too small and M8 is too big and it has a 1.0mm pitch. My bolt measured 6.5mm across but as far as I know, there's no such thing as an M6.5x1.0 bolt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87tzr7JuF1r8drV345xeP0KBsFlKTznGpCNXIKjhRpPCijaRDo1ENBk782EJ6uF4dA9sRQslnkl-HEbMfsXuY5f8rHvvvGiOcuELjx6U7QlLqop8k5EhscmkFAF7jDXPTQ_YN3zViYUW5fTda--UY57=w1547-h870-s-no
I'm not re-using this filter but it holds the airbox against the inside of the toolbox and lets me know how much space I have left. I'll probably use a big conical/cylindrical washable air filter.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85LVl_brKuUgTCCXC8FBoAC6UwxQTxQ5O4ZeAoH9RHW5oWEIN9Ax9TJLs3359F1pebJSzQTsNiptgQOFUXGnPX1JeEUexmYhEeHsuwpjqPHBwtih9nbM0nDq5vq204zgNcLOfWf-WaXO7ODoOtOrHW_=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV8684TxTPBa7RMumDTTvheRymEYxAIntx5MOwIz1u7BVgUeNTN-sTfB_ZRFBsvM4h8d5Va9c0-N2jVqnIuCR1VD17cq4hy8gFncEhrdNMQ5Gbmplm80G37aIINsWActLvn6RpySjTVqrd9Q4YgHrXz_-=w1547-h870-s-no
CDI.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85zAtDHOFCrjjeGKf-B6d8uehQivWgG-R-c0133NvaD5ISrsu1P9uvXoNT-52jmXpdlcUS0FzAnLvDNJFVNrf_vi5f4GLQgN8pJKCLpjtkGmmhq9Ix3MDeCFD4Sd-v4nFuN2rkJMUTMaWp_9pfWXA5Z=w1547-h870-s-no
Reg/rec.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87CRtL8KOAG4YfZx0_LcL-ERzR_U1BrO4Jn9QPPWnp_4-aqirbIArx7tk2BlKx_eh8qkquv9a_E4fO0K52UBaHr4s_LDf74CnzaN4c6upmCA0Rbqj-U_TeZpzjkWnUVK317KEz5rdlg0P0zZrtfSkuW=w1547-h870-s-no
Ignition coil.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86cJQm6jWt8e8y8pr9FD4Fkt4LA1yZn1f2mme5dmkG7ABAHP0BDiGoPtv1ZIMoAmR7XA0-GqicQ8_UhInVDg7S16TKo8HBNzUuHp0AiWUMMulvwn2orwSo9qzxEanlC2Pl6bLpDmIGB_hxJJ2cH0tSF=w1547-h870-s-no
Just put in a big order for wiring stuff. They don't do the "birds nest" in the headlamp/clocks thing on these bikes. They have multipin connectors hidden under the tank and keep everything relatively clean up around the front of the bike. It'll take a lot of looking at. I think the approach will be more start at the switches/dash with the minimum number of wires they need and work back towards the loom then sort it out from there. They like to daisy-chain their lives and earths too, a bit like house wiring.
One potential pain was the ignition switch. It's a 2-pin normally off switch. For the CDI conversion, I need it normally on to kill the spark. I'm not switching the rest of the electrics because it'll have no battery. Might put a capacitor in if it gets flickery at lower revs but it's supposed to be a battery free system. It turns out you can take Soviet ignition switches apart and rotate them into a normally on configuration. All depends which position you pike the casing into.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87kzQBUrw5aswMw-aQnYoVd-RnTMfiT5D156FA5XhAvh270gqa9IAtFmjzqe3pwTf_UcxcYMYIdbksperUXfZ1i9RBN7wnXIGeYn6cymBznzAYmg7YosjkxvGSD3gWXoZH_fNqzi6d6iHWE76XYAaRJ=w1547-h870-s-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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virus World Chat Champion
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 08:28 - 16 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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I have a couple of 4,700microfahrad 50V radial capacitors left over from my enfields (I keep them in the toolbox on flying wires so I can plug them in if I get a flat battery).
Reckon one of those would do it?
I'm going to fit LED lighting because why wouldn't you? Only potential snag I can see is a single indicator tell-tale. Obviously that won't work with the standard setup with the tell-tale bridging to two sides, all the flashers would light up (they're non-polarity sensitive LED bulbs). I was going to take a wire from each side of the flash switch to one pin of the tell-tale, earth the other and fit a diode inline in each incoming leg to prevent backflow. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 17:31 - 16 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Flasher relays eh?
This just reminded me I have some sitting on the window sill.
I made batch of them a few years ago and recently dug them out
with the intention of testing them
I think they're ready to be used but as I didn't put labels on them I'll have to check
to be sure.
They're based on a 555 timer and a Mosfet driver and when I tested a few way back
found they would work from 6v to 24V on blubs leds or any combination of such.
Sticking them in APS film canisters made them easily waterproof too
As I recall the 3 wires were for Power in, Ground and Flashes out
which when grounded via switch and led/blub, started the flashing process.
A tell tale would work as you described with a solitary led
grounded on one side with inputs from both indicators fed via diodes.
After I've tested them I'll bung a couple in a jiffy bag and post them to you
if you want
https://imgur.com/VEuWCm6.jpg ____________________ bikers smell of wee |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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A100man World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Posted: 23:37 - 21 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Fpr the last few days, I have mostly been wiring. Take-homes. Mini connector blocks were a bad idea, should have used full size, the tabs on the crimps aren't long enough to take two wires properly and there were quite a few places I needed to double-up. I used multicore wire for most of the runs of cable between componants. I think this was a good diea but it gets confusing because you have to keep switching wire colours. However, the connector blocks take a lot of the guesswork out if something needs chasing through later.
I like to deal with the "parts" seperately. So ignition. Wire up the CDI and run a kill wire up to the dash. I'm using this toolbox for the wiring. The actual airbox is seperate to it, this doesn't have any functional part in the combustion cycle other than to keep the air filter dry. I'll be drilling holes and inserting grommets as i need them.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84BV3GfnvSpyytbmanQ9gWVBlJxkY_agH0_uStasdORZtcv5G3_IJIl-gBxIYqhc_PAuhlNvIS3K4RPFHiIm5ssldcwFwIM--s0E30TctyeDOaNLSaGwfAg0Kfnz30ZQ6UQxUFZWLrr25SFtI2L_KzN=w1547-h870-s-no
Run a good frame earth. May as well hook the reg/rec up to it directly. Scraped the paint off and silicone greased it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86xb-oqSJiWi4SCJpUkqhwb509AVU6_3_3_AUJiVROsy5HrbkgGkGoP_fgN6zN_-bJnA7Rnvg_cOkJuuQIVkZeJao_1Vo4BCgGbY6nqyR7L8INRGASSo4e_TjlqTL_q7EOMjThgzZv8HCIs31YCgyjO=w1547-h870-s-no
Amazon special air filter. I just got a cheap one because I wasn't sure it was going to fit. Drilling a hole and trimming bits off the boot on a £12 filter is much less scary than doing it on a £40 one. I'm sure it'll do, if it seems strangled, I know what style fits now.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84wI1vLMA0vFqvgxM39NiYFTb9xeYKofscaanWhvSZUKvTS_H2I9FkocjkPNpbbK-ui7wGEPDgu8y3EzBpdsPf0p20rKT5j1MypAwOpmB65zDnimrSGtJUhMJ6Z_CWRElMETKDvEkdSsiaDkcRHIbqX=w1547-h870-s-no
Main fuse fitted and power to the flasher relay. I'm copying the manufacturers technique of "daisy chains" for live feeds and earths.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84RuF-HA59-RIevAZtYoKRx1qj7Lvd6N287xVqbfME1mvpo6o2W5dEyHszpFOz-tb24WKpAzIOR7WTKsAPaVwvC4z26EjoXYY_tGC7sDcp8CK2oV2vwOLsL5UAB1UccnVnORyA0yvQlha3wzOWcTjTb=w1547-h870-s-no
Dash lights and ignition switch (really a kill switch). I'm wiring in all the bits first and taking the cables back to just behind the headstock, then I'll connect everythign that needs connecting. A 5-core wire here.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85IwIC6Crb5Rg3TpUPewhMDS8YSBQJOsYBPSZM280wQ1e-PtZgnzrARovAhByl0SA2zl6Pa9FlmIYJ0REeAsHNHFR6nVFW2idzi3ZHlCnaKYvmT6Jjn0OAmS6ro1MM7f_ZKiOuQFSJ24pZ69AUhQzaH=w1547-h870-s-no
Headlamp needed one to carry the main headlight power, sidelight and earth. Another cable to take the sidelight, flasher repeater and main beam tell-tale up to the dash. Thirs twin core with left and right flashers.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85Lqo-ZXzCDlorXD8dK38n2oYlRqe2k6WkyY17Aptjw4JhFYmNrIU2ysMTvnl53zZkOYU2M-C25DFOkW1BbWt-Xp7RgdwvhAT4-HWzSX1nAjRfgfjJOAJ3fs1IqDkGw07ETHOM-EM6CiiereD4R9H6L=w1547-h870-s-no
Switchgear coming down.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85hWckizIPM5dt3r5oupAEWJntiEqrNvyWxLrUJMXmjgPU8p_ZuguTeZDYNffDiBHUhYbBoEZXoWXD4dIqz6UuJgp9z-pMnlJfOamRDPu66026uGn9zMIKGOv_9ZMoWN59Cd1TFVuNNNTLwciiWtlD2=w1547-h870-s-no
Flashers on. These are terrible flashers. Lucas "replicas". Where lucas used dodgy chromed zinc-based pot metal, these use chromed plastic. I couldn't believe my eyes though, they copied them exactly, even down to using the casing as an earth. The bulb normally earths through the indicator stem by virtue of the bulb holder base being screwed to the indicator body. Only this is made of plastic. It's earthing through the chrome paint! (and miraculously, they do actually flash) I've ordered some diddy ring terminals and I'll run an extra wire back from the bulb holder to a common earth inside the headlamp shell.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87nDwbVm_okcxPCSyuBReUyl4BsumtHG8j3zgNvq9LxNwFyuqNFLS0OevT0DRY8EK9j0Ape5n2AKVTXEXM4f3NN5UauBrk8wvK1XVPuO62Uy92lLhOVt2AVFWNjz1i6C8-SF0KQNw1jfcaWhG2W37cJ=w1547-h870-s-no
Many hours and lots of busted mini crimps later... This will all be under the tank. I was tempted to run the wires in through the square holes in the gusset plate but i think they'll be perfect for routing the clutch and throttle cables.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84BGTeuDw1RKWxw3OQ-bGr5Oj8raPCW31DKnRlM9GwpsEwe6Jg2HETClEBkaDbjEjPZJESx6Av7V1d2xZd53G1zSoDRebrJpD2kBY_ushrZ8-JxmZwPkNcr3a66cSg5POBG0qrSz2ssBIPC9lUbdmuf=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86HVzz92dYxgwuX5xYsHRTiQCDPVN_hBJzWpDHM8rioW5KVAo6M-79QK-sMX904t2NzdrdbuNwpnHttAgcaS3_a5KUZyKaYIQPiahmBtNFG6KCI9rQZmSlVktMrE2PVOXTc-jK6NoNSaNkkKpAcLnzL=w1547-h870-s-no
Flux capacitor.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84viFr-ubCD1SPqcn08tK3NJWJ788e6ktRBpfguKqIy6Tdb_Ih8EOnKUitq-gPemZr-xYb5ay-9OKsfxFUPynaiohP_9AOPYuLU_dTV0rfj7OTgLqRWCB5VA34j02UvO4R3Py1VnZZ2ltwaTwnp1-WJ=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85sAFGNq0uWLhpAWnExMmNJIPmvj0d9QOtQwF3R2l_CxMMpqpbAxFSYaqxJbA8bzHETmIP5pui9NCtjDCAVFunSHSizmEjA-R17Y4vTNZq907XiHWhA6iRL1BfNk6tKnXMW0dmT6hZ7Q42COaQCvCfs=w1547-h870-s-no
It's actually an anti-reverse diode circuit so I can use one flasher tell-tale for both sets of flashers.
Starting to look more and more like a motorcycle. The battery on the seat is for testing purposes. Headlamp and flashers all work.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86siVeQ2D6lxJvGLS8Iuek7tko5Ins45g5SNMsEkCn6DMpOyd-cwHKELDL1qENRoVIhAPol_84XNRN3RA4pb9IdJ4PsYhZNPSqQo_ubm5AI6NqzBXlsPKD-6Qa2jJcrjGxCEdKOTc0VBmWLkKdOE3UM=w489-h870-s-no
Dash lights all work too. Speedo is the original face and casing with the guts out of a Voskhod speedo in it. All for show anyway, as I recall, they all just swing about violently anyway.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86kMXuT_MKaBfPm1DI8bfUFFrFFPDXlzcxRI66_LoJmIEzqzryzJ4PyJ9E8ZCbmgRta6SyDYl1mreDQO-uZOq3GUiZVteDyfPKjCttbWfJXv_HCaogSPFb6vYBZMTgikRUbDhyaj0VeFBXuKfUHdk2F=w1547-h870-s-no
Neatened things up a bit on here. Mounted the CDI on an alloy bracket. I'll stick the flasher relay in with some sticky pads. Found a bag of spare 10A fuses which can stay in there. Twoi flyng wires left over for the rear brake switch which i haven't figured out yet and wont until I get the brake shoes back from the re-liners.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86UOQB_uYQckt3psfj3q47JzFTaWJ7IMwNirp3rQFCqnYy-4Wi67TRLP_UJFVFs2_E1FaCtNuV6I_UUDmmJKP1dwSlPhE4lv7gpobSexAP6E5hd3GREZn8TUJ7Ejl6-v8GNftJ6l6XZyW2fXwjupbQ1=w1547-h870-s-no
It's really tricky to measure centre and level on a curved mudguard. Tail light bracket fitted and a piece of over-long multicore wired in for the back end. Routing will depend on how I get on with the mudguard fabrication which is the next big job.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87H5MwSNi9JDevgLs6gXuwkSxdOulU4N0vQbibIwGn_v2I5_dbxw9iQU5rUSBH_PmxdkY28-YS_E12b2ItJDYnBy1R47jKs_4OR_rPy7E3XBkr9wrecCazyfqSpLw7bLD78Y6eNkCJRkSje_F9maEEI=w1547-h870-s-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 00:38 - 24 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Ok, panel beating. Never done this before but I watched a youtube...
Got my CAD template. Marked out on a thick piece of MDF. Because this tapers to a point, I've only done the top curve because otherwise the form will be too thin at that point to be hammered on. The plan is to cut out the bottom curve once the top one is beaten in because then the steel itself will support the form.
Second form slightly undersize to allow access to the edge for beating. Also marked out the steel with the excess for turning the flange and folding the edges.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV873xOhQ-zdlY2fs9OfWA_vWyPj7B3eJT-CF-Nf9-1LgFhWAa_JWj-zPHZmoxZ4Cf9wluj5RQcQSmDF8JLku_gnqK5-OyZQl8MK0g58P9oNenzqdIQKyktWE19BlT4_arADqXcUqcExlfZWuUQrjceCS=w1547-h870-s-no
It turns out the best way to do this is to cut out with a jigsaw to just outside the lines then use the tin-snips to cut the last bit out. Had the jigsaw out anyway to cut the forms. Broke my last blade just as I was finishing up so I'll get more tomorrow.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84WHEqC0jV_NyWFWj8Si0r2H5sM68RS6layVtQUuIyKsfX4PE8MetrQFsZ8cFXZRJgwffcAso74J2XD-_nl5S0D5q9poM8M7ba9Hd1WUe6rHEkSnnjEccHZYJTQ3a3CcJ9bL0lSGt0V6RZRJA3h5o8b=w1547-h870-s-no
Then a case of clamping it in and start stretching metal. You might see I got a bit too enthusiastic here and also made some mis-hits which dimpled the metal nearer the edge. That is a pain in the arse because this is a stretching operation. It will continue to be a pain in the arse.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87lvYjmMgKzTBKyQbfx__hzxVr24aTaJCVyL6ahf0R1W7Jw-8G1tQ1WzNy98LrUQDxT6LVitKWuTkSNbSmGmXm1uRoUXMG1EVIkKiH5lshh4i1FqkuHPmt4LgldATRDaamiRXc6_npyZOSasjIVUkj-=w1547-h870-s-no
Further progress but you can see where I overstretched the metal is starting to cause tucks. This necessitates shrinking instead where you use a rounded hammer instead of a flat one and hammer down on the tucks. I fought on with this for quite a while.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86pCmdIjq8Bvk2U4R4HlHqqn9DiCHpoXOJ5DsuXQ9Yoy9XeIC2hkYxjkSyl9fxTNmN0C6isr_07lb1aSN3bqOc6lf7v5_XPxPHt_NFT66Z10cmRSOd08vNQgcZX8Qle0OgJ_Htc4BgLjIL9aPQo_5um=w1547-h870-s-no
Got it most of the way there but those tucks started breaking away the edge of the form so this is as far as it goes in the form.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85NazcV4BaCaJXFzTrr3HfOiVKCw-8o80q9FBJp-0cnGVC_Mh0_C4MpCPMB2m-xoAmM9ez9YqYWiNJFk-_CFdYfEbP2AEJPwsDhkiFCOPWcrBnN8leCxfRrVtPrkbMsN4_8Da_70AJxXqKL3gFaV3D7=w1547-h870-s-no
I went to working with a shrinking hammer and curved dolly and managed to get the tucks out. Still need to do the shrunk curved edge at the bottom but that's more of a lip than a flange so a certain amount of tucking will be fine as long as the edge itself is clean. Frankly, enough hammering for one day but I think the next one will go better.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84BDmBBhC5EcQuwWcP5TUkZ3TCAv61cxgybJiAGItS5Rkf25RpSKVV2Y5YixR1PsttRMdZU4b8jpdKtSMfsPxo1-5kyZDwJuUdYfYoPL_lvbH1aDTvnuWUa9OHX1vK3iqu4KR5GCOrrtvs22o5zWqXF=w1547-h870-s-no
Fore reference, here's what i was shooting for.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84J-ic5L8IaK5smvRkXdO6DKQjoycev3ECwJaI6mdOSm_kTpYo2Se9uo7oSC8EUJx1GYGqrsJ6wwZpuCF4G5wzXrxGqracrs0oAEZBXLiTLkxdUkPAr5t5chg9-G7KLYWjmTxq_bj4XuAwr0QdFHcio=w1547-h870-s-no
What did I learn?
Slow down, less impatience. Keep the hammering to the edge of the form and away from the edge of the steel. The steel will take care of itself and it's better to spend longer stretching than to have to shrink the edge of the flange.
Leave more excess on the edge. it can be trimmed to fit later, I have made this just barely wide enough.
Make the forms more oversize by extending the length of the curve about another 1" or 1 1/2". As you get near the edges, it's tricky to keep the steel hard against the form and it has a tendancy to warp away from it. That warp can be accounted for and trimmed later.
Even with slowing down, I reckon the next one will take half the time. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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rpsmith79 |
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rpsmith79 World Chat Champion
Joined: 31 Jan 2017 Karma :
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Posted: 09:48 - 24 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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That is some impressive work, especially for a first time effort ____________________ Current Bike: Honda CG125 ES4 // Honda CB600FS Hornet // Triumph Street Triple R |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 00:50 - 26 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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A break from panel beating. The saddle latch is missing and I couldn't remember how it worked. Unsecured saddles are a pet hate of my MOT tester (he hates the sprung lycette saddle on my Bullet) so I thought I'd better sort it out. A lot of looking at rusty scrap seat bases from Eastern block bikes on ebay eventually prodded my memory. It has a simple bent spring plate with a hole in that goes over a peg on the frame.
Needed some thin-ish spring steel because normal plate will just bend. Stood looking round the shed for a long while when my gaze fell on an old wood saw. It was really cheap and doesn't cut very well. I haven't used it for over 10 years. So some metallurgy, how do you saw a saw? Heated it to critical temperature and allowed to cool to anneal the metal. It's high carbon steel so should now be austenite which is the softer form of the steel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85ksAZoGACWfnyvVE4iPDh6QUh1wv4OlqgPA3xDyJljUK2GJoXJb_STtuuXqUERbDnd9Q05y4OhXAhyDoY90fyf4h-nggrim8ManU0qu900oNRKdB7k6T6cYwVjIXByufsrhxMyhBvoquQRxWZiI5nY=w1547-h870-s-no
Sure enough, this softened it to the point it could be cut and drilled and bent without snapping. Then I took it back up to critical temperature and quenched in rapeseed oil. A file test showed it was now hard as glass. I then torch annealed it to a purple colour to put some flexability back into it so it doesn't snap in use.
A really simple thing but I'm pleased with it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86Ifnsg4gHfVapnyDBCtfYDgS87u_Jtf1rYLMwErvqRVXq5__BXjx5R6u8kH4Ecvj1-RYKfJDgFRgyfXn3BiH63clWcZCTrTlqmcVWts9K9yeCc5VRIQ1gL6fYt-OuQfVmXGBKaukG9UVMwSNBKZ7SR=w1547-h870-s-no
Looks just like the original.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85v4nt_w5BCy4OT7gVWYi_M2hTRkSWnVirwMcUFaZaz60sqhRFIn3CuLjdvhGQnTk_cORe5J-FtLcY8NP7mZuGMrxPK_tSIW8W3uvZBzHbRDDsrSjZMx1niG_wZeWswPM-WSLnWBWUGAVl37xgWGuP3=w1547-h870-s-no
Horn fitted and working.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85jvomwkShpJ499HfPjSq5mChayHI3VnbZjTSCOASNJ_8Gu4ggTGjhX92L1J9AbwxiTFbWclzfy8dnnr4ZTMekmjLoDLDpxgSmH02eNrZyOeFqoXj1pYC3xiWohxfKERoTB_NHuT1aE9FxY6brc4O5b=w1547-h870-s-no
Found the twist grip and made up a throttle cable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87ZQWnU8sVRmkDcaBTI6S8GY9eZRam2yBciiT8YF29EnX7Am-uxhqDz-4aZhEBEvh6MYf9RGyE4FLfu8oyM4KQMDmD8lPKJDTw1qxBdlM6EiHmK6GGDxvmG3AKBwdncMzBpWnoseaxYyzftUzi-6ajg=w1547-h870-s-no
Attached to the carb. It's ready to bolt on as soon as I get hold of a manifold.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84H5eeJP2gD_JiL0m53tEG_yC35ty2EY1woB-wHtT3b3iPKA1UquRXGo2kWZInmjAMEsTHg-ysGbiqLmeNJYxEs_G7nbPi20krExOyIQfMCWmD4C1YVIHUO8WywxVla8asEJBzhBqtlLnBWshybZz3t=w1547-h870-s-no
Made up a clutch cable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84kSai141sHvd-A36iTqCcVl9wkyO06gbqTpFkqPkwx9YzpSG94MDy-p6TZ8x8USw8oQsMzIoBUnIj4tNLVdgYoJYxMZOzudKxKsZqFNXcH88cFqluPjrumCQtJ5DvmdrZhJI8Q9EW_WdL0wx0F9QYl=w1547-h870-s-no
Header pipe loosely fitted. Mostly so i could route the clutch cable which goes under the engine.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84XhRMS2MKArhfwXAF43frGhSgwyX7IeyTp8cBZvnTk_ZBPZ8C9Caaqxpln5-i0B1FBPL4GhI0502avFnx6C-qhFtFIG83d36heGRf9QzushDSzglFHahZJj8r-gIDsnJIJBMMtW4FIfqRN237p2Wmj=w1547-h870-s-no
Re-lined brake shoes arrived. Had a moment of panic when I fitted them and they were too tight, had a devil of a job getting them back out of the hub. A few strokes of sandpaper took enough off the surface to allow some movement. The brake is rod controlled and very simple. I also like how it's tucked up out of the way trials style.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86rNPcY8Q1uCJtFsx2XhlIRrREIae6mOMKzmq_x56b4xTtrtlXh1_2hjJqvzpHPqj6FAfSatLu8AMZXp6rPhWY3LfKw2N0jNo01bcsRujr4_-P26G6sHPypkI6GnXT0SRJWBK2H8Vu94FNW3nDEN_Az=w1547-h870-s-no
I have no idea how they usually do the brake light switch. I had a spare Japanese style pull switch so I made up a bracket for it. I can't be far off the mark because it has a handly hole in the end of the brake rod hook which must be for a switch to attach to.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85od0RdrQlgEJXRB5X8O6RIIyuAuuJ6ZT6BN4fKh4bQZ5rG8mtEmYnYneumjGTKdCC-Q1cab6mVPPbk06WH2r_2k9QM9-4DQEzCO8uOzuE96KctEpr4swDjexBhvdqQxlewWrjzqIjhPiSJACKEJc4c=w1547-h870-s-no
Front shoes also fitted, still need to do the cable for it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86sY9a6SWTPNT595XKNckYNCzH0BIPIBPFG5mA7AmQDuXhWSfarYZmIt6KNg6BxH3SmR8z6i1iof42hc7sdwR8ocSdXXkFBNXDDU7IaSiIuttlm6V8VRjeXQOxBj5W9-MEttojXHK5YWE_pbFXOc9UY=w1547-h870-s-no
All the wiring is now done except the stop/tail light and rear flashers but the cable is already run ready so it just needs routing, cutting to length and connecting up.
Need to sort out the exhaust (maybe just set fire to it, it's minging with 2-stroke sludge and spilled gear oil). Also need to get the mainstand off my spare frame and order a numberplate. Main effort now is to finish up the mudguards then i can paint them and complete the assembly.
Lack of inlet manifold is worrying me. If I can't get one, I'll have to have one made up and it's a bit of a complex thing, more than I can do. It's just a block with two stud holes but it goes from a round to a square port and I have a horrible feeling the two faces aren't paralell. I know a guy who is a dab hand with a mill but he's not quick at getting stuff done.
I may even contact the guy I got this from and buy one of his spare engines. It wouldn't be wrong to have one in case something critical lets go.
Also, not to be outdone, one of my neighbours went out and bought himself a twinport Voskhod 175 last week. It's a work of art with "space age" integral chrome racks, bullet shaped headlamp and an alloy shrouded carb. It's also a worse basket-case than this was, he'll have his work cut out. I may well have some spares that'll fit it, I had a look and they share some parts in common. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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virus |
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virus World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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virus |
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virus World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :
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Posted: 15:52 - 26 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Understandable, I've spent my morning measuring up replacement panels for my mums greenhouse. Its been so windy this last week my neighbours wheelie bin is on a speed awareness course ____________________ own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance. |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 23:07 - 26 Jan 2024 Post subject: |
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Made a front brake cable tonight. Thought I'd do more detail.
This is a venhill front brake cable kit but you could as easily buy the parts seperately, probably works out cheaper. It's what I did with the others but i kind of think the front brake is the only really safety critical one so I'll treat it to the good stuff.
The outer had one ferrule already attached so slot this into the lever.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86sQZMwTL7kZsoKwatPxmvt7CVw5u7Cfh3GM0fLGw8TEXvDcFOptfTidbWat_BksN6vHOW6jTEqYyDEW7zNwmwXtomvf5wRb9ZsYgqq5MRSs_PxxjgQjynofOqfVKOMEGQcbxJ1sOQHYXMkk8xPTLuG=w1547-h870-s-no
Then route the outer where you want it, shallow bends, avoiding rubs and accounting for fork compression. I fitted the adjuster in the brake plate and offered the cable up to it, marking where it want it cut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV879v1viAg3vgQb7297UjEaFULjobSn0oWMVm04H5XVtBR6rGoIB-KCY2siWxxqcm1feyqtMJjUxtcMCsiVbfb6rnPz_RvnwLZObHJ402AF6RpkBArxUhkSpKMlGmMiSM2s1qZfwTN-yTo18jN4SgJqC=w1547-h870-s-no
Best way to get a clean cut is with a cut-off wheel. Don't mess about, blast through it so you keep heat to a minimum which can melt the outer sleeve.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84JqIJLO8bxPNSLsusp7Pf9Zaoxm9UTZQNoCc0Un12URHqSP3KQ1dmAXuCYDNUvPTkBms3-jNeEzhkXkUcGhta7jzwxOgg1V6IEyfNPwidl0AntrFSF6Tei6tgbWWPPxo1gAICq-m5E4ad-CROke1ZM=w1547-h870-s-no
Apply the ferrule(s) to the ends of the outer and crimp them on. This is the wrong crimping tool but it works.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86YKQRG9WKmT7otIbrEtLkRplj_Oe2O44iQ9EpVfN0MU6CP24Nmsjbh9AXGcaoanSK6KaRuu3LZiApYYn8J_R4hW8nDoYuy1nwXVPxQMEG4TRCiSU5JT1ZxvMeA1nJxifPEesNV8PhaezFap71dADwi=w1547-h870-s-no
Now insert both ends into their respective holes.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86MDjCMFskF5eSYBN3JLkgr6Pc-YlLRm8xgroJpEW0tZQBLPsnkOeuCVUdmgDvzgsqeOKf24W83P6HGHCNsUd3lSFgidOh5AGU6Lgob8TfJ_hWN6Vo1V5VEGuzrYVDEWue70VfwtCJ0vHIXdX5YAqJo=w1547-h870-s-no
Attach the cable at the top end. Again, this nipple was already attached, you may need to solder on your own.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84s7eLJtIwdzHhoYlE9xf1sihxq1HYHsIqK5K3C1ESJ7eH5OOMzrP9St0CC0NOASPi_LyNPN81LavNVNVNBZoH9_VVi26ktiVQN80d-pm5Ya_dhAX8uAAgTkM-G92RCla-axanPlNew2bEYqMdOVn3y=w1547-h870-s-no
It's a bad fit in the lever because I forgot to put the little plastic cage thingy on it. You can just as easily use a full-size nipple. The plastic cage helps it rotate easily in the lever and reduces fatigue on the cable end.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84L-00xqy6e95uHGSlmIvCmbVgaalBb29o9bmtt32CDPxc_KPMs0mzL5mGtKzOOs-BCYQSPSolwydFJLdn130umuQb8SlZLiaqERije61MAS4PDqbgiwNnYb7TEj28W2khVQn2Ph2ed4A3j9NGiIyU8=w1547-h870-s-no
Thread the cable down and measure where you want to cut it for the bottom nipple. Make sure the outer is fully seated and the cable is pulled tight. I use a pair of tin-snips to cut the inner cable, seems to make a nice clean cut with minimal unravelling.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87H0Jb7tZiuGq2FXPGD_yMBHKOeomw8QaWsBbWUwdya-sFdOJUgqAj40bo2pdlmy6FlxGoiywvgDDTZGk6JX6gzNjzT3C_vi6hqus7EH6NDaoxrNbPVcyXr96jNIftimdM6UN9BbR4G1XxhjfjAro7Z=w1547-h870-s-no
Remove from bike and thread all the bits you are going to want on the end. In this case a rubber boot, the adjuster, the nipple and a pear nipple.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87HcbfyfLBjECwJQNQ-18brRfx81aXTHVY-gJFT2tImP4Xp5OIHbvDVdy3Dp7Epu4SSuy_Ne_sWwe3SnavmO_jbNKS3n3O9b185PRZ1P64NGOpdxhThgaMT1vT4AvPz2xXFg7RH2kFfdbyXXQ7upHMR=w1547-h870-s-no
I made myself this neat birdcaging tool by drilling into two bits of alloy which were clamped together. It can be used to clamp the cable in a vice withotu damaging it. You set it so some protrudes into the larger diameter hole.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86fK8vqor5tQ92h6jPh1xJqcOXGax27IdTHW0pwjeFEXE3aqfkcwFsaEpSjmlMaDAb9jxZHt3JD5313FjmHFPw-0gdDtHwSGif3KRFnjQoEjVDrktfl9Jr9k6-IU5uekvdcW-tEz-mndhIJCBi-K2dh=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86HqsHVO_RbDQxnwma2orIG1aeFzrVHyBPoDH0CnnDdHdY0w2cDSmm2dH0y5CWHCAdo_miWoSUhLxNW5gt_4t-5JNLWM5Z7V3Y3qRPwt1Ly92x9KK_iDRZw6hj26_mT4jOi0HDSfn-5hB4bnOTWCOWu=w1547-h870-s-no
Then you give ther end of the cable a shgarp smack using a hollow-ended punch (in this case, a nail punch).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85J69RLTzOJqKgJhM84wcvWgm5rr8vp9Um5aILfcgQNsFaUVfUPSskyueQColScsRkXz6_e7A7YcNTocSJKeYiAI7FfCWBSPQ2nfJ2rNXAh5hroV3GY70VugOjY3DMHipkoZf4n9CpPxxoGlQ44jJu2=w1547-h870-s-no
This neatly birdcages the end of the cable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84db8MVOzdOAJ5oFH-9cS_wK7q90hs7VfOlkRTCGEHXWBRWB2Iros55I2nvuVQRWoaWvhipDxn8Ebj2kjIi96z8F6NIJbMsQE4bLrzUTqJIRZuLhiBqvrF4l7bZiokgRBY8ofhllV6gZMklsDUC67PX=w1547-h870-s-no
The best way to solder the end is to dip it using bakers flux and a solder pot, which is how venhill do them. I'll admit to being lazy and couldn't be bothered setting my solder pot up so I did it with resin-fluxed lead tin solder and a soldering iron. My birdcage tool is ideal for clamping it all steady while you solder it and the alloy will heatsink the cable just below the nipple preventing thermal damage.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85Dj2Yq_T0Zvu7enk7VAV7eHH6ZCmd1Y4wUVvAHy8kTZ4LBfJywA9W3eVJSsFZzNnAwDGPOL3uCyJZkKidn7HRMRXx2Ko13M9xp2TpX-B6zAIU_fQ1bSswjzXbItdgQsl39rgLDCb5f8zGxPtLaD0B_=w1547-h870-s-no
Soldered, this is going nowhere.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV859_vOqczYStRZkswd_7r1vA-Xg5omIH9KHF-EttNQQIJSJi49NI3lK8KtiYbOl1kSoInadwNZ1V3CyTZBoA3Ng6hoGUme8ZYRpZlw6mP7lRLiYSCFcXQbChsv52Btr4DWXhIz8gllFYc8T3I-J6kkz=w1547-h870-s-no
Finally fit and adjust. You may also notice I've fitted the speedo cable and some nicer looking flange bolts on the mudguard stays.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84cexoidLhBDzuv2UZmmIZgjxfbUTE17-GWCG_iiz0YVdf3R3ijdk85tZTJLzvz76Vo5Zf3_u2pcaTwP3IjXePTqwbel8u6PPO5cpbUSg-NdrYl1UxZb2NAFVpgWDpNSPrYbj3pPXeOC-8XAzsgGvR0=w1547-h870-s-no ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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